The Backstory
Mathias Van Leyden, proprietor of Loulou (named for his beloved dog), comes from a family steeped in the arts – all of them. Dad was a film editor, mom a musician, his grandparents fine artists, an actor, and
a writer. The restaurateur has a natural feel for aesthetics and environment. Raised in France and Switzerland, Mathias developed early independence. His father remarried and set the 17 year-old up in an apartment with only initial financial support. Optimistic, can-do spirit served him well. He exudes it today.
The young man found a niche bar tending till dawn in some of the best clubs in Paris. Money was good, but Mathias was restless. At 25, he and a friend came to New York. He resumed his Paris trajectory which expanded to running clubs such as Lot 61 and Bungalow 8. Eventually it became appealing to open his own restaurant. “You don’t need to work with Jean Georges or Daniel Boulud; it’s not rocket science,” he says. “Just imagine what you’d want as a customer, find your own way of doing it, and learn as you go.” The mortality rate of New York venues refutes his cheery credo while Mathias’s own success seems to support it.
Loulou opened February 19 and was shut by the Pandemic on March 16. Just when it was getting back
on its feet, an arsonist choose the venue as one of 11 purposefully set fires. (He was caught.) Closing
and rebuilding was a struggle; outside corner space helped. A loyal neighborhood returned. Living close to the venue allows the proprietor to go home and walk Loulou. Though he’s there every day, he “doesn’t count the money at the end.” While dining, we watch him cover the terrain with awareness and enough humming energy to light downtown.
Chef Evan Bergman is an American trained in French cooking at ICE – Institute of Culinary Education. He began with Veritas and joined the Charlie Palmer Group at Oriole and Charlie Palmer Steakhouse. Mathias comes up with a dish, Evan interprets.
Down the Rabbit Hole and Firebird
Loulou is known for Craft Cocktails that emerge in originally shaped glasses. These include Down the Rabbit Hole (Upstate Vodka, Aperol, fresh lime juice, watermelon juice and basil), Firebird (Patron silver, Cointreau, lime juice, hibiscus), and The World Is Yours (Empress gin, Heaven saki junmai, crème de peche, edible flowers). There are also Mocktails, beers, and fine wine. My companion didn’t drink. I had a glass of champagne with St. Germain. ‘Highly recommended it’s refreshing and light. ‘Not on the menu. Just ask.
Menu Sampling
Note: There’s a Dog Menu – no kidding – with bowls of salmon, chicken, and hamburger.
Corn Soup with charred corn and piquillo pepper was chowder texture in tandem with tasty kernels. A drizzle of something pungent like sherry vinegar might add piquancy as would colder temperature –
like vichyssoise. Bibb Lettuce Salad with lemon, honey Dijon shallot dressing was fresh, but flat.
Corn Soup and Baked Camembert
The winner of this initial trio was Baked Camembert with rosemary, lavender honey, and baguette (gluten free bread available). Only more honey (it arrived with less than the photo depicts) could improve the composition of this plate. The cheese is exquisite in flavor and consistency, baguette crisp, not hard, nicely toasted. I can easily imagine dining late on only this and a glass of wine. There’s something decadent about its lovely ooze.
Next came a second winner, whole, moist Branzino with Kalamata oil puree, lemon capers, herb relish
and baby watercress. Watercress was wilted, but the fish was excellent. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten Branzino without carefully picking tiny bones out. This one, filleted on both sides, was miraculously
bone free – not a guarantee, but a marvel. The fish was tender, flaky, flavorful and easily lifted from its skin.
Branzino
A third wave included three small Lamb Chops (a couple of bites each) with baby watercress (décor), tomato confit, chimichurri, and harissa. Despite the kitchen ostensibly toning them down for me, I found the marinade made meat too spicy for my palate. My companion, however, praised the acidity of relish on top and the vinegary bite against innate gaminess. A generous side of Brussels Sprouts with smoked bacon, thyme, and jalapeno apple vinaigrette was too spicy hot for both of us. As preference for spice is very specific, Chef might err on the side of less. One can add tang but not subtract it.
Lamb Chops and Duck Confit
In this group, the winner was Duck Confit with celery root puree and wild cherry compote. I could’ve eaten two of these. Flavor was subtle, texture delicate and tender. The combination of compote and fowl worked wonderfully. A savory treat with a dash of sweet.
We sampled three desserts. Apple Tart with amaretto cherry gelato, caramel sauce, and powdered sugar offered less sauce than optimum and apples sliced too big to get a perfect combination bite. Crust arrived coarse. Ginger or cinnamon gelato might complement apples and almond creating better contrast/interest. Mousse au Chocolat – chocolate ganache, berries and whipped cream – was pleasant if uninspired.
Croissant Pudding
The recommended highlight was Croissant Pudding – chocolate bread pudding, caramel, vanilla bean gelato. The dessert is not cloyingly sweet, consistency is appealing, vanilla bean a fine coordinating choice. I had decaffeinated coffee, often weak at even good restaurants. Here it was quite good.
My companion, who had dined here previously, tells me the hamburger is excellent. Later sampling of the flatbreads was also an entirely positive experience.
Mathias eschews “boring, stuffy, French restaurants” with attitude. He created a comfortable, lively bistro. Music goes up after 7:30, though is not obtrusive. This is a good spot to remember when attending the Joyce Theater. Late fall, he and his partners will debut Le Petit Village on Seventh Avenue South and Perry Street. Preliminary designs resemble a 19th century French brasserie. The slightly smaller restaurant (with an upstairs room) will present a more classically French menu including Casoulet and Boeuf Bourguignon.
A separate Eighth Avenue venue entrance, whose door is made from an old Coke Machine, leads downstairs to Adélaïde’s Salon, an intimate space with café menu and drinks. The variety room currently features jazz, cabaret and burlesque. I’m told a belly dancer is coming. The boite is available for private parties. See following article.
LouLou Petit Bistro
176 Eighth Avenue
Photos courtesy of the restaurant.
