The Plum Torte – Thank You, Marian Burros

The end of summer means it's time for the plum torte, courtesy of Marian Burros. Our tribute.

Marian Burros, the longtime food writer for the New York Times, died on September 20, in Bethesda, Maryland. She was 92. Her incredible career included stints at the Washington Post and the Washington Star before she landed at the Times. She’s credited with changing the mission of a food writer. There were many recipes, of course, but she also focused on healthy eating, with columns on nutrition, truth in advertising, and government policy. 

But for some of her fans, she will be remembered for her most popular recipe for a plum torte. In fact, according to the Times, that recipe remains one of the most popular ever run in the newspaper. 

I first saw the recipe in 1983, when it appeared in one of her columns. I made the torte, my family and guests enjoyed it, and it soon became one of my go-to desserts. I was not alone. Burros’ readers so loved the recipe that each year, when the end of summer rolled around and the purple plums were available, bakers began to write in and ask her: “Are you going to print the plum torte recipe?” In her 1989 column, she expressed her exasperation, asking why people couldn’t just save the recipe instead of expecting it to be printed each year? 

She finally gave in and ran the recipe with “some tinkering.” Although to my eye, the recipe was basically the same. 

When I learned that she had died, I had to make the torte. Maybe as a tribute? Mostly because it is the most perfect dessert recipe. It is easy to make, with only half a dozen ingredients (if you don’t count the lemon juice and sugar sprinkled on top before it goes into the oven). And while other fruit can be substituted for the plums, nothing elevates the torte like those succulent purple orbs. 

I had my fingers crossed as I headed to Whole Foods. I didn’t need to worry. The plums were there in all their glory, and I soon gathered up a dozen to make the torte. I got out my Kitchenmaid mixer, heated the oven, and greased the pan. In less than 30 minutes, I had the dough made, the plums sliced and placed on top, and the torte in the oven. Although the directions are to bake the torte for 50 to 60 minutes, I often take it out earlier, making sure that the pastry is done but not dry and the plums juicy.

With guests coming for dinner, I planned to serve it with whipped cream, and we will have a toast to Marian to thank her for all her recipes and efforts to make food safer. But, most of all, for the best dessert recipe ever, the plum torte.

You can find Marian Burros’ recipe for the plum torte on the Times website.

Photos by Woman Around Town

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